Most horses seem to prefer being outside, but shelter from hot weather/direct sunlight, cold rains, sleet, and strong cold winds is a must. There are two basic places to house horses – pastures and stalls.
Pasture
Horses that are maintained on pasture should have access to an open-front or three-sided shelter. Most horses go into these sheds only for food, shade, or to get out of a cold rain. The shed should face away from prevailing winds and towards the low winter sun (southeast in Ohio). The shed should be at least 20 ft. deep to provide adequate protection, and the opening should be at least 10 ft. high with no barriers. Ample "escape space" should be provided, as horses in sheds are prone to fighting if the area is small and cramped, especially if they are fed within. Ideally, waterers should be well away from the shed.
Feeding horses in a group setting can be done but there are several management practices that should be used. Adequate feeder space is necessary if only one feeder is used. Group feeding of weanlings and yearlings often works well if there is enough feeder space – approximately two to three feet per horse. Mature horses are more individualistic in their eating habits. Aggressive horses will tend to eat more than their share, timid horses not enough. It is better to have separate feeders for each horse separated by 50 ft. and to have one or two more feeders than horses. If common feeders must be used, having multiple feeders and a minimum of three feet per horse will reduce the chances of injury to the timid horses by the aggressive ones.
Feeder design is important. It should have no sharp edges or protruding points. If the feeder is too wide, the horses will hit their knees on it while eating from the far side. However, narrower feeders should not be used with aggressive horses, as such feeders allow them to get a lot of feed easily. This can result in bolting of feed by both aggressive and timid horses, causing indigestion, colic, and founder. Placing large objects that cannot be swallowed, such as rocks or salt blocks, in the feeder will help slow them down.
Stalls
Individual stalls are the most common housing for horses. Stalls should be large enough for the horse to move around and to get up and lie down. A 12 ft. x 12 ft. stall is recommended for most light horses. Walls and doors should be high enough to discourage horses from trying to jump or fight over them. A total height of seven or more feet is recommended.
Horses kept in stalls receive more individual attention, are kept cleaner and more presentable, and their feed and exercise programs can be more closely monitored. These horses should be exercised at least once daily by either turning them out in a paddock or pasture, or by riding, lounging, or walking on a mechanical walker.
Vices develop most commonly in stabled horses. Some of the more common vices are associated with frustration, boredom, or lack of adequate roughage in the diet.
"Escape" behaviors include pawing, weaving, pacing, and kicking. Weaving and stall walking are of particular concern, as they can lead to a loss of body condition. These behaviors are associated with frustration at confinement and isolation and may disappear if the horse is given exercise and time to socialize with other horses.
"Oral" vices include eating nonfood materials, tail or mane chewing, cribbing, and wind sucking. These vices seem to develop mostly in horses with no opportunity to graze. Some of these will resolve if the horse is given access to pasture, more hay, exercise, and companionship, but others will continue even then, having become a habit.
Hot
Horses that are overweight will have difficulty keeping their body temperature down in hot weather. The excess weight also has a negative impact on performance, resulting in an increased heart and respiration rate and higher plasma lactate concentrations, indicating more stress.
In addition to providing adequate shade and ventilation, feeding habits can be changed in hot weather to help keep your horse cool. Provide plenty of water, as their intake can increase by nearly four times the amount they would drink in temperate weather. Feed less forage, particularly legumes. The higher protein in legumes creates additional heat as the body digests it. Feed more grains and added fat to meet the energy requirements. Fats in particular result in less body heat when they’re digested, decreasing the heat load on the horse. Always make sure to provide adequate salt.
Cold
A long hair coat is the horse’s first defense against cold weather. Horses kept in warm barns or blanketed will not grow a winter coat, and horses raised in warm climates will take longer to grow a winter coat the first time they are in a colder climate. A dry winter coat is good to 18ºF to maintain comfort. Wet winter coats are not nearly as useful and will only maintain comfort to 59ºF. With acclimatization, a horse with a dry haircoat can be comfortable to -40ºF. Horses will huddle together, run around, and use body fat for more energy to keep warm. Wind chill has a dramatic effect on the overall temperature, and this should be kept in mind.
The horse’s second defense against the cold is body fat. This not only insulates the horse but also provides a reservoir of energy to generate heat. A horse with a body score of 7 will most likely survive the Ohio winters without needing added feed.
Energy needs have been found to increase by 0.7% per degree of temperature below 18ºF when the winter coat is dry. If the winter coat is wet, the increase is 2% per degree F. The best feed to increase is roughage, since the microbial fermentation will result in a greater amount of heat produced by digestion.
With respect to water, horses can survive on ice or snow, but doing so results in a decreased total water intake, which decreases feed intake and results in weight loss. Providing water in waterers warmed to 45—65ºF will usually result in adequate water consumption.